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Discuss Sarracenia, Heliamphora, Darlingtonia, Cephalotus plant care here

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By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#421995
I gotta update on this and it is looking rather ruff looking now but I've got alot of new leaves growing and a few pitchers I still haven't determined yet what the cause of these brown spots are is there anyone our there thats familiar with fertlizer burn with these? I have a humidifier that I only run tap water threw that blows on my plants lightly but don't really get them wet would that might be causing it? If these plants have to low of humidity does that make the brown tips? If there's any experience growers of these plants I ask for ur help I'm still a big newbie at these but I have yet to kill one yet I've already counted out overwatering because I check these with a meter daily so I don't think it's water here's a recent picture I'm debating n uprooting it to look at roots but I don't want to stress it out more if it's still recovering from whatever and make it worst.
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By Panman
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Posts:  6386
Joined:  Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:41 pm
#421999
Looking at the leaves, I would think overwatering or fertilizer burn. What kind of meter are you using to check moisture? I've found that the low end ones are very inaccurate.
By davinstewart
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Posts:  343
Joined:  Sat Jul 13, 2013 2:29 pm
#422008
Ya, I'd disregard the meter and just water it every week or when the pitchers run out of water.

I'd also move it out of the area of the humidifier. Fungus is a big enemy of these plants and a humidifier will just encourage that. Air movement is good. Moisture laden air is bad. I grow mine without any humidification at all and they're doing well.

Definitely stop with fertilizer and repot in fresh soil if you haven't already.
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By Panman
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Posts:  6386
Joined:  Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:41 pm
#422009
I agree about humidity. I have mine growing indoors without any humidifier. I have it in a 6" tall pot, water once per week and leave it sit in less than 1/4 inch of water. They are very prone to fungus and rot so watering and air flow are critical.
By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#422014
Well there's always conflicting stories on humidity the place I got them at grew them all in 70% and higher and I really had to highly acclimate these plants when I got um I have all my plants with a fan constantly running on them all oscillating with a humidifier some say they grow faster in humidity I guess I was experimenting. I don't water this plant but once every 8 or 9 day n my plants sit on a capillary mat to water so they don't sit in anything at all there bottom watered. It's a 2.5 inch pot by 3 inch so I'd be afraid to go Many more days past that considering the size I use a sustee which is the blue thing in the pot that suppose to turn white when it gets a pH of 2 n also a 3 in one type water meter to check it also. I'm using dyno grow fertlizer 1/8 of a teaspoon a gallon I spray um once a week it's worked awesome on my others but maybe this ones diff I've just never had anyone say if actual humidifier mist spraying on the plants is bad so I'll move it away and try that n I do want to repot but once again like I said I feel like it's already stressed and don't want to make it worst by reporting but if it gets any worst I know I'll have to. Thank u all for ur input I just wanted to try to count out on everything it could be n suggestions.
By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#422016
Btw I sent a picture to the ones who sold it to me n there saying it looks like spidermites and I haven't noticed ant indication of them no webs nothing on the new leaves there coming out bright green. Btw when u grow these under high light do they tend to brown on the rib of the pitchers n looked kinda dried out I didn't no if this was normal seems like a common theme on all of um maybe not all the pitchers but most...
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By Apollyon
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Posts:  1663
Joined:  Tue May 05, 2020 2:49 am
#422023
If the plant was grown in low lighting and then immediately exposed to bright lighting, damage *can* occur. I had mine outside over the winter and they did die back before they stabilized. I've put green ones under intense lighting and have spotting as well. Newer plant material is hardened off to the new conditions. From what I've seen, Rainbow carnivorous plants often grows their stuff in lower light conditions. Probably to maximize growing area but you can really see it in their pinguicula. Some plants are more temperamental than others when it comes to fertilizing. I think a main factor here is it sounds like you are constantly changing conditions for this plant while it is still struggling to adapt. If it was grown in 70% and it was dropped to say, 40, it'll take a little time to adjust sometimes. I wouldn't fertilize it at all during that time and I wouldn't fertilize it every week.

In my experience growing cephalotus in both conditions, I found growing in relative to bring about faster growing and healthier plants (after they have settled in). Sometimes they take a while. I personally only grow cephs in humidity if I'm cloning them or they're really weak (after dividing) but they seem to plateau in my conditions at a certain point. After a while, I bring them out and they sit for a while and then go crazy. Besides, it would get tedious trying to accommodate the plant as it grows larger in those conditions. I would take the humidifier out in general (unless you're in a *super* dry area because it really isn't necessary and I've had damage to CPs just from getting splashed with my tap water so it could possibly be an issue.

I've personally gone with a Nep style 50/50 LFS/Perlite mix for cephalotus and it's worked out great. I don't have any experience with capillary mats so I couldn't say if leeching is even a possible issue but it doesn't seem like it would be. I can say if you left a small level of water at the bottom of the tray, the ceph wouldn't know the difference, especially in open air conditions.

Spider mites seems like a stretch to me. Yellowing and crisping in leaves often comes from factors like watering and lighting. Pick the place you want to keep the plant, drop the fertilizer until it sees healthy growth (or fill the pitchers instead) and water it to where the media doesn't dry out. Cephs get that rhizome rot reputation but you don't want to treat it like a cactus either. My ceph media stays damp all the time and will often sit in a small amount of water. Media composition is the main factor. Something you can do to mitigate the risk is slip-potting it into a taller container and that will allow you more freedom with bottom watering.
By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#422056
Thanks again for the response it really helps to have someone to explain things like u have and yes ALL of my cephs come from rainbow carnivorous plants nursery but one which is from curious plants nursery all of them a very extensive acclimation but this green one beat them all I've had it for a little over a month n I've always kept a humidifier in room and blowing on my plants but after the recent suggestions I have recently still kept my fan but moved humidifier so it's not blowing moisture mist on them anymore. I hope your right about the acclmation maybe that's what it's doing where it was so very green when I got it hopefully it all hardens up eventually all new leaves are staying all green no brown yet so maybe it's Dien back the old and the new will adjust to new setting as far as changing it. It's bein pretty consist conditions 60 to 70% at all times and I've left it in same growing area where the lights hit the same for past month making sure not to move it closer or further away so it can acclimate n yeah I'm very guilty of fertilizing but I prolly should've waited. I hate I lost all My biggest pitchers due to this which has me a little upset due to it seems every giant I've bought has lost one or 2 of its biggest pitchers due to acclimating n it sucks makes me want to buy all my plants small just cus when u loose large pitchers like that they take so long to grow all ur foliage back on so u loose 6months of growth in a few weeks time. Every plant I've gotten from rainbow carnivorous plant nursery has been a huge aggravation due to there growing conditions vs mine they told me they grow there's in domes in 1020 trays and I like my plants sitting out so its been a pain to just get Um normal I jus6 bought a bubble giant for almost 200$ n I'm afraid to change its conditions because of its size n i don't want to loose what It's already grown but I'm trying to change one thing at a time now get it use to light then work on humidity so I don't have the same issues with this one as well n btw all the plants I have are all grown in long fiber sphagnum moss to I do prefer the sand mix tho better tho seems to be not so soaking wet to me but i can tell it really grows good in it to. Either way think I've ranted enough thanks for the advice if any other tips u have please share because I'm eager to listen from someone more experienced then me I'm determined to figure these plants out even if I gotta figure it out on my own :D here's a picture of my bubble giant it's doin pretty good right now just hasn't grown much since I got it
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By Apollyon
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Posts:  1663
Joined:  Tue May 05, 2020 2:49 am
#422068
Trust me, when you lock into the right conditions a few drop offs dont mean anything. I split this Hummer’s Giant into 4 different plants from the same size 3.5 in pot and they did this within 6 months or so. I dont have fans of misters and I spray them infrequently. I used to fertilize the inside of the pitchers but not so much these days
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By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#422081
What kind of fertilizer did u use on these? These plants look huge btw ill be glad when I get one huge one like that looks like it's pretty low light to be that green I haven't figure out where exactly "low" light is for real under the 1500 watt philizon light it's like even if it's close to the floor it still gets a redish tint to it so I kno it must be still getting pretty high light so I'm still figuring that out to myself. I also do fertlizer so much in pitchers maybe a osmacote pellet from time to time but it seems they always kill off the pitcher it's n indefinitely no matter how small the piece is but I see pretty large growth from it afterwards but when using maxsea even a 1/4 of a teaspoon a gallon I get burns like that on the top inside of the lids like that n maybe it's the mist I just notice those pitchers can't handle very much spraying the fertlizer seems to be the better option but I lightened up alot but I'm gonna listen to u n stop on the big green for a while this use to be a decent size plant but I really have lost about half of it but it's a big lesson learn making mistakes like these think I'm gonna be pretty bummed out when I actually loose one of um for the first time but I kno it bound to happen someday!
By Matthew reynolds
Posts:  32
Joined:  Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:31 pm
#423107
So I gotta update!! I decided to repot the little guy because my new leaves coming in was getting brown tips plus I really really wanted to change the soil it came in when i bought it. I wanted to make sure the roots weren't dieing or something to my very great surprise the roots look awesome! The orchid pro fertlizer i used never hurt them one bit they were nice and brown but I gotta another speed-bump right after I pulled off and cleaned all the roots with the media on it after repot with in a day the plant just looked deflated all wilted I guess this is normal? Does anyone no the aftercare of a repot ? Should this be in a high humidity dome for a while I don't want it to die I've seen a bunch of videos with people root deciding with all media off roots but they never said it would just fall down after u repot it either way any input would be appreciated I'm hoping if it comes back that the plants leaves and blowing may stop the media looked pretty dark it was in was another reason i changed it.
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