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By VelvetTooth
Posts:  143
Joined:  Thu Apr 21, 2022 5:05 am
#416290
Could it be possibly root rot or a disease? All the old pitchers are dying off and there aren’t that many new ones besides the gray one in the picture.
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By ChefDean
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Joined:  Tue Sep 18, 2018 12:44 am
#416298
VelvetTooth wrote: Fri Jul 08, 2022 5:31 amI think it only got to high heat today because the sphagnum moss must’ve been sitting in direct sun since sunrise after I cut off a tree branch that was making shade. 85 F in damp moss is a pretty big jump for a 69-72 F morning, so I’m not entirely sure why that happened even with sun.
Well, that's info we didn't have previously that could factor in. An abrupt increase in light and heat could account for some, but a single days increase shouldn't affect it that much. If it were always in the shade, then put out in the sun for a week, I would expect some declination as it tries to adapt, but not a single day.
However, if it was doing fine before the branch was taken, put it back in a spot that mimics the previous conditions, and see how it responds.
VelvetTooth wrote:Could it be possibly root rot or a disease? All the old pitchers are dying off and there aren’t that many new ones besides the gray one in the picture.
"Could be" a lot of things. Old pitchers naturally die off, and new ones don't just turn gray. If you suspect rot, the only way to tell is look. But the plant may not like being uprooted for an inspection. Even exposing a few roots to try and look might set it back. Where you don't know the actual cause, I wouldn't suggest anything drastic.
If it was doing OK before, put it back in those conditions and monitor it. It may likely continue to decline before it gets better, but only uproot it if you genuinely suspect rot or other root related issue as that will cause it to decline after repotting due to stress.
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By Nepenthes0260
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#416316
To me, those symptoms indicate temperature and watering issues. Here’s an excellent guide from Sarracenia Northwest on Darlingtonia. Specifically, note the section on temperature and watering.

https://www.growcarnivorousplants.com/d ... nica-care/

I experienced similar issues when temps were rising up, roots were warming up, and I didn’t have any water movement for my plants. By the time they’re starting to go squishy it might be too late. I set up a drip system running directly off cool groundwater for my cobras and haven’t experienced the issue again, despite day temperatures routinely reaching well over 90 F.
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By Nepenthes0260
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#416317
Additionally, Mike Wang and I have noticed that larger plants seem to be more susceptible to collapsing when conditions are unfavorable compared to younger plants. I have seedlings trays of Darlingtonia that don’t get any special attention whatsoever, but when they get upgraded to larger pots they go in the drip tray with their larger cousins.
By VelvetTooth
Posts:  143
Joined:  Thu Apr 21, 2022 5:05 am
#416323
Nepenthes0260 wrote: Fri Jul 08, 2022 3:22 pm Additionally, Mike Wang and I have noticed that larger plants seem to be more susceptible to collapsing when conditions are unfavorable compared to younger plants. I have seedlings trays of Darlingtonia that don’t get any special attention whatsoever, but when they get upgraded to larger pots they go in the drip tray with their larger cousins.
You both noticed that in coastal and mountain varieties?
By VelvetTooth
Posts:  143
Joined:  Thu Apr 21, 2022 5:05 am
#416327
Nepenthes0260 wrote: Fri Jul 08, 2022 3:19 pm To me, those symptoms indicate temperature and watering issues. Here’s an excellent guide from Sarracenia Northwest on Darlingtonia. Specifically, note the section on temperature and watering.

https://www.growcarnivorousplants.com/d ... nica-care/

I experienced similar issues when temps were rising up, roots were warming up, and I didn’t have any water movement for my plants. By the time they’re starting to go squishy it might be too late. I set up a drip system running directly off cool groundwater for my cobras and haven’t experienced the issue again, despite day temperatures routinely reaching well over 90 F.
By not having water movement, did you mean it was sitting in a water tray or was top watering not enough? I am top watering like chef Dean, but I still have no idea how his could survive in such high temperatures (and watering every other day too!)
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By Nepenthes0260
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#416390
VelvetTooth wrote:
Nepenthes0260 wrote: Fri Jul 08, 2022 3:22 pm Additionally, Mike Wang and I have noticed that larger plants seem to be more susceptible to collapsing when conditions are unfavorable compared to younger plants. I have seedlings trays of Darlingtonia that don’t get any special attention whatsoever, but when they get upgraded to larger pots they go in the drip tray with their larger cousins.
You both noticed that in coastal and mountain varieties?
IMO the "coastal"/"mountain" variety description makes zero sense, as cobras are found at all sorts of elevations and intermediates in those areas. For example, there's a red "mountain" strain from Del Norte Co., CA that is one of the most finicky cobras I have ever grown and absolutely hates high temperatures due to the elevation it occurs at.

Yes, previously I was just top watering with the tray method and that wasn't enough to keep my larger plants happy during summer. Perhaps Dean's plant isn't having issues because it's still a smaller specimen?
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